A Movietube is a piece of equipment that you bolt onto the front of a video camera to make the captured images look more filmic.
I used a Movietube recently when filming the trailer for the upcoming motion picture Circumference and ever since people have been asking me my thoughts on it so here they are for the whole world to leanr from.
The most common question I've been asked is does it actually work? The answer is a resounding yes, however there is a "but..." to go on the end of that statement.
A visit to the Movietube site immediately reveals their slogan - "Making your dreams come true", and I'd just like to add that it brings a few nightmares with it too.
This is an example image from the shoot last week. It's pure, without any post grading or in-camera image adjustments whatsoever. It needs it as the blacks should be deeper and the image should be deinterlaced.
The results were always surprisingly filmic, not in a way that you'd compare them to 35mm or even 16mm rather a whole new format all of it's own.
The problems we had fell into a number of different issues, the first being the final image sharpness. The point of shooting with film lenses projecting onto the equivenlent of a 35mm plate is that you can create a shallower depth of field and when you do that focusin can become more difficult. We always shot wide open with the Movietube to get the most shallow depth of field possible and in fact it's recommended that you shoot with the lens closed no more than f4.0 otherwise you may see the grain on the projection screen ground glass.
Now, shooting with prime lenses meant that you can't zoom in to check focus like you would normally so you have to go back to the old focus pullers film camera method of physically measuring the distance of the subject from the focal plane using a tape measure. This was fine, and very accurate too but unfortunately the image would still look slightly soft which is when you perform the second level of focusing, that of adjusting the docked video camera (in our case a Panasonic HVX200 recording full-on HD-DVCpro images to a hard disk). Now according to the manual this should be as simple as pressing the infinity focus button on the side of the camera to force the focus to infinity but this never worked and was always terrible soft. So we'd end up having to focus the docking camera by eye alone and no matter how much we rocked the focus around the resulting image could never be made 100% sharp. It was weird, like someone had put a slight post production blur filter on top of the image but the was nothing that could be done and after much investigation and experimentation we decided that it must be a "feature" of Movietube and probably something to do with the nature of the ground glass having a similar effect to a promist filter in front of the lens.
Our second problem also affected our first problem somewhat. When you point the camera at a subject with a bright background the Movietube reacts by creating a bloom effect around your subjects which ultimately makes them look even more out of focus. Again this is similar to the effect you'd get with a heavy white promist filter in front of the lens.
Our first day of shooting had us filming subjects against a row of windows which played havok both with the image and our frustrations on set with the uncertainty of the image focus. Even worse our second day of shooting was to be in a studio with a bright white infinity curve behind our subject and the experience we'd had on day one suggested that it was probably going to do the same thing only worse. This wasn't the case however and the Movietube handled the white background much better than the over-exposed windows and the resulting shots were quite impressive.
Thirdly you need a lot of light for Movietube. We hired a set of ND filters as we were going to be shooting half of it in bright sunny conditions, did we need them, did we heck. With our prime lens wide open the docking camera would be operating around f8, and we only flipped the docking cameras ND in twice when we were shooting right into the sun. As for indoors we couldn't afford a decent powered lighting setup and our 3 redheads, 2 blondes and 3 Satchler 300s almost wasn't enough and on many occasions I had to switch the camera gain in to compensate (not a problem in HD due to the resolution and fantastic signal to noise ratio).
Working with Movietube on the whole is fiddly, and even though the build quality is robust and professional it still feels very much like working with a beta build. You need to approach it with a "film shoot" mentality in that it will take just as long to set up, change lenses, check the gate (yes you have to do that too). With a standard video shoot you'd put the camera back in its case and move to the next location, with Movietube taking it all to pieces after a location shoot to move on to the next one would be schedule suicide and the only way we could move around with any speed was to keep the rig all set up and carry it on my lap in the passenger seat.
The results from Movietube are good and I'm pleased we used it for the shoot rather than just shooting HD alone but what I've learnt from it is that when the money is raised for the final shoot we need enough to shoot the whole thing on 35mm film as it still is really the only way to go. Heck I'll tell you what, I'd be a whole load more confident shooting on film than using Movietube even with the knowledge that you can't see if the shot has turned out until the stock is processed.
I do have praise for the Movietube though as it has opened up a world of possibility for people desperate for that film-look without the cost. It's a cool piece of kit, not without its flaws though but I guarantee that if you shoot using it when you watch the rushes back you will be amazed just how filmic it all looks.